Can leather and fur ever really be sustainable?
From the resurgence of big fur coats to the timeless appeal of leather boots, leather and fur are undeniably making a statement in fashion once again. As we embrace these animal derived materials, we must confront the uncomfortable truth: they are often associated with unethical and unsustainable practices.
Taking animals’ lives to produce a product that is non-essential is extremely unethical. Millions of animals suffer in small cages and die every year just for fashion. On top of the cruelty of leather and fur farming, the industry is extremely polluting. A recent report by Humane Society International UK shed light on the alarming environmental impacts of mink, fox, and raccoon dog fur production, surpassing those of other materials in fashion. The carbon footprint of 1kg of mink fur was found to be 31 times higher than that of cotton, while the combined water pollution from these furs was on average 100 times more than that from cotton. Moreover, the tanning process for animal leather involves the release of toxic chemicals and heavy metals into our environment, posing risks to aquatic life and ecosystems.
Nonetheless, the debate rages on regarding whether faux leather and fur are more sustainable alternatives. Most faux leathers and furs on the market are derived from plastics, presenting their own set of ecological challenges. While these may be more ethical alternatives to animal products, plastic production and disposal are both ecologically toxic processes, shedding microplastics that end up in water supplies, animals, and our own bodies.
For those still desiring authentic leather or fur, there are more ethical ways to shop. Shopping for vintage, pre-loved, or up-cycled pieces not only reduces demand for new animal products but also extends the lifespan of existing garments. Additionally, seeking out leather products certified by the Leather Working Group ensures that production adheres to stringent environmental and ethical standards, promoting responsible practices within the industry. There are many fashion brands that work with Leather Working Group tanneries, such as Nisolo, Behno, Mulberry, and Chloé to name a few.
Another intriguing solution to sustainable leather is utilizing leather from invasive species, which are a direct driver of biodiversity loss. For example, the Burmese python is threatening wildlife populations in Florida’s Everglades. On a mission to be a part of the solution to this ecological crisis, sneaker brand P448 is supporting the removal of Burmese pythons from the Florida Everglades and putting their skin to use with their Burmese Python sneaker. Other brands that have also used this approach are Piper & Skye with python skin in the design of its handbags, Brackish with a lionfish leather inlay in its earrings, and Teton Leather crafting its wallets and clutches from python, lionfish and dragonfish.
The most exciting solutions are the innovative alternatives that forgo both animal products and plastics. Material scientists have recently developed groundbreaking leather-like materials from plants such as pineapple, apple, and cactus, which not only offer cruelty-free options but also utilize agricultural byproducts, reducing waste and supporting farming communities. These plant derived, plastic free leather alternatives also do not contain harmful chemicals, emit less emissions, and require less water and energy to produce. Biofluff’s Savian introduces the world’s first plant-based fur by transforming nettle, hemp and flax into luxurious plush textures, reducing CO2 emissions in fur processing by a remarkable 40-90%.
As consumers, we hold the power to drive change in the fashion industry by supporting sustainable practices and embracing innovative alternatives. By making conscious choices, we can redefine luxury without compromising our values or the planet's well-being. Below are links to shop my favorite ethical and sustainable leather products (for fur, I recommend your local thrift or vintage shop):
Pineapple leather: this stunning pump from O2 Monde or a statement belt from nae
Apple leather: a classic handbag from Sarjaa
Cactus leather: this gorgeous clutch from Eslla
Invasive leather: P448 carp leather sneakers, Brackish lionfish leather earrings, Piper & Skye python leather handbag
Upcycled leather: a fun bucket bag from Hyer Goods
Leather Working Group: these cute Nisolo sandals